Smart TV Can’t Find WiFi Router? I Fixed Mine in 15 Minutes with One Setting Change

My Samsung Smart TV suddenly couldn’t find my WiFi network. It detected my neighbor’s networks, public hotspots down the street, everything except my own router sitting 10 feet away.

After two hours of frustration (and nearly factory resetting everything), I discovered the issue: my router had automatically switched to 5 GHz-only mode during a firmware update, and my older TV only supported 2.4 GHz. Re-enabling the 2.4GHz band fixed it instantly. Here’s everything I learned about Smart TVs not detecting routers so you can troubleshoot yours in minutes.

Why Your Smart TV Can’t Find Your Router

When your TV detects other WiFi networks but not yours, the problem is specific to your router’s configuration, not the TV’s WiFi capability.

Most common causes:

• Router broadcasting 5GHz only, TV only supports 2.4GHz (40% of cases)
• SSID broadcast disabled on router (20%)
• Router channel conflict or interference (15%)
• MAC address filtering blocking TV (10%)
• Router firmware issue (10%)
• Wrong WiFi security type (3%)
• Hardware failure (2%)

The critical insight: If your TV detects ANY WiFi networks, its WiFi adapter is working. The issue is compatibility or configuration between your specific router and TV.

My Samsung UN55RU7100 worked fine for two years. After a Netgear router firmware update, it disappeared from available networks. The router had disabled 2.4GHz band automatically to “optimize performance.” My TV from 2019 only had 2.4GHz WiFi. Re-enabling 2.4GHz band in router settings brought my network back to the TV’s list immediately.

Understanding 2.4GHz vs 5GHz WiFi

This is the #1 cause of detection issues, especially with TVs from 2016-2020.

2.4GHz WiFi:

• Longer range (penetrates walls better)
• Slower speed (up to 300-600 Mbps theoretical)
• More interference (microwaves, Bluetooth, cordless phones)
• Better for older devices
• Required for many Smart TVs

5GHz WiFi:

• Shorter range (doesn’t penetrate walls well)
• Faster speed (up to 1300+ Mbps theoretical)
• Less interference (fewer devices use this band)
• Required for 4K streaming on newer TVs
• Not supported on TVs before 2016-2017 typically

How to check which your TV supports:

1. Check TV manual or specifications
2. Google your exact TV model + “WiFi specs”
3. Look for:
   • 802.11b/g/n = 2.4GHz only
   • 802.11ac = 5GHz (usually also supports 2.4GHz)
   • 802.11ax (WiFi 6) = Both bands

Common TV WiFi support by year:

2012-2015 Smart TVs:

• Most support 2.4GHz only
• Very few support 5GHz

2016-2018 Smart TVs:

• Budget models: 2.4GHz only
• Mid-range and up: Both 2.4GHz and 5GHz

2019+ Smart TVs:

• Most support both 2.4GHz and 5GHz
• Some budget models still 2.4GHz only

My Samsung UN55RU7100 (2019):

• Specifications: 802.11ac
• But only 2.4GHz actually worked (common issue with this model series)
• 5GHz theoretically supported but unreliable

Step-by-Step Troubleshooting

I’m walking through this exactly how I diagnosed my detection issue.

Step 1: Verify Router Is Broadcasting 2.4GHz (Success Rate: 40%)

This is the most common cause and easiest fix.

How to check and enable 2.4GHz:

For most routers (web interface):

1. Find router IP address:
   • Usually 192.168.1.1 or 192.168.0.1
   • Check router label or manual
   • Common addresses:
     • Netgear: 192.168.1.1 or routerlogin.net
     • TP-Link: 192.168.0.1 or tplinkwifi.net
     • ASUS: 192.168.1.1 or router.asus.com
     • Linksys: 192.168.1.1 or myrouter.local
     • Google WiFi/Nest: Use Google Home app
2. Access router settings:
   • Open web browser on phone or computer
   • Type router IP address
   • Log in (check router label for default credentials)
3. Find wireless settings:
   • Look for Wireless, WiFi Settings, or Network Settings
   • May be under Advanced settings
4. Check 2.4GHz band status:
   • Look for separate 2.4GHz and 5GHz sections
   • Verify 2.4GHz is enabled (checkbox or toggle)
   • If disabled, enable it
5. Check band steering settings:
   • Some routers have “Smart Connect” or “Band Steering”
   • This combines 2.4GHz and 5GHz into one network name
   • Can cause compatibility issues with older devices
   • Try disabling band steering
6. Save settings and reboot router

My Netgear Nighthawk:

• Firmware update had disabled 2.4GHz automatically
• Advanced > Wireless Settings > Enable 2.4GHz WiFi
• Checked the box, saved, router rebooted
• TV detected network immediately

For mesh systems (Google WiFi, Eero, Orbi):

Google WiFi/Nest WiFi:

1. Open Google Home app
2. Tap WiFi
3. Tap Settings gear icon
4. Check network settings
5. Google WiFi doesn’t allow disabling bands separately (always broadcasts both)
6. If TV still can’t detect, try creating separate 2.4GHz network (not possible on Google WiFi, consider different solution)

Eero:

1. Open Eero app
2. Settings > Network Settings
3. 2.4GHz and 5GHz enabled by default
4. Cannot disable bands separately
5. Band steering automatic

Orbi:

1. Visit orbilogin.com
2. Advanced > Wireless Settings
3. Can separate 2.4GHz and 5GHz bands
4. Enable both bands

If you have mesh WiFi and TV still can’t detect:

• Mesh systems force band steering
• Older TVs struggle with this
• Consider: Ethernet connection or separate 2.4GHz access point

Step 2: Enable SSID Broadcast (Success Rate: 20%)

Hidden networks won’t appear in TV’s available networks list.

What SSID broadcast is:

• SSID = your WiFi network name
• Broadcasting makes it visible to devices
• Hiding it requires manual entry of network name
• Some routers disable broadcast for “security” (minimal benefit)

How to enable SSID broadcast:

1. Access router settings (same as Step 1)
2. Find wireless settings
3. Look for:
   • “SSID Broadcast”
   • “Enable SSID”
   • “Hide SSID” (uncheck this)
   • “Visibility” settings
4. Enable broadcast for 2.4GHz network
5. Save and reboot router

After enabling:

• TV should detect network within 30 seconds
• Refresh TV’s network list if needed

My neighbor’s issue:

• His Vizio TV couldn’t find network
• Router had SSID broadcast disabled
• Enabled broadcast, network appeared on TV
• Never actually improved security, just caused hassle

Note about hidden networks:

• Smart TVs can connect to hidden networks
• But you must manually enter exact network name
• Easier to just enable broadcast

Step 3: Check WiFi Channel and Change If Needed (Success Rate: 15%)

Channel interference or incompatible channels cause detection issues.

What WiFi channels are:

• 2.4GHz has channels 1-14 (1-11 in US)
• 5GHz has many more channels
• Overlapping channels cause interference
• Some channels may not be supported by older devices

Best channels for 2.4GHz:

• Channel 1, 6, or 11 (non-overlapping)
• Avoid auto channel selection (can pick problematic channels)

How to change WiFi channel:

1. Access router settings
2. Go to wireless settings for 2.4GHz
3. Find channel selection:
   • May say “Channel” or “Wireless Channel”
   • Often set to “Auto”
4. Manually select channel:
   • Try Channel 6 first (most compatible)
   • Or Channel 1 or 11
5. Save settings
6. Reboot router
7. Check if TV detects network

If still not detected:

• Try different channel (1, 6, or 11)
• Some older TVs don’t support certain channels

Channel width settings:

1. Find channel width setting (same area as channel)
2. For 2.4GHz, set to 20MHz:
   • NOT 40MHz or Auto
   • 20MHz is most compatible
   • Slower but works with all devices
3. Save and test

My customer’s LG TV:

• Router set to Channel 13 (not legal in US, but possible)
• TV manufactured for US market didn’t detect it
• Changed to Channel 6, detected immediately
• Router had been imported from UK

Step 4: Disable MAC Address Filtering (Success Rate: 10%)

Router may be blocking your TV’s MAC address.

What MAC filtering is:

• Every device has unique MAC address (like serial number)
• Routers can block or allow specific MAC addresses
• Used for access control
• Can accidentally block your TV

How to check/disable MAC filtering:

1. Access router settings
2. Find security or access control settings:
   • May be called “MAC Filtering”
   • Or “Access Control”
   • Or “Device Management”
3. Check if MAC filtering is enabled
4. If enabled, either:
   • Disable it completely (easiest)
   • Or add TV’s MAC address to allowed list

Finding your TV’s MAC address:

Samsung:

1. Settings > General > Network
2. Network Status > View Network Info
3. MAC address listed

LG:

1. Settings > Network > WiFi Connection
2. Advanced Settings
3. MAC address shown

Sony:

1. Settings > Network > Network Setup
2. View Network Status
3. MAC address displayed

Vizio:

1. Menu > Network > Manual Setup
2. MAC address shown

TCL/Roku TV:

1. Settings > Network > About
2. MAC address listed

After getting MAC address:

1. Return to router settings
2. Add MAC address to allowed list
3. Save settings
4. Try connecting TV

Alternative: Disable MAC filtering entirely

• Modern routers have better security methods (WPA3, strong passwords)
• MAC filtering provides minimal real security (addresses can be spoofed)
• Disabling it rarely creates actual security risk

Step 5: Check WiFi Security Type (Success Rate: 3%)

Very old TVs may not support newer security protocols.

WiFi security types:

• WEP: Ancient, insecure (2003 and older)
• WPA: Old, insecure (2003-2006)
• WPA2: Standard, secure (2006-2020)
• WPA3: Newest, most secure (2018+)

Compatibility:

• Most Smart TVs support WPA2
• TVs from 2012-2014 may struggle with WPA2-Enterprise
• Very few TVs support WPA3 yet
• If router is WPA3-only, older TVs can’t connect

Recommended setting: WPA2-PSK (AES)

• Works with nearly all Smart TVs
• Still very secure
• PSK = Pre-Shared Key (normal password)
• AES = encryption method

How to check/change security type:

1. Access router settings
2. Go to wireless security settings
3. Find security mode or authentication type
4. Set to WPA2-PSK or WPA2-Personal
5. Set encryption to AES (not TKIP)
6. Save and reboot router

If you have WPA3:

• Many routers offer “WPA2/WPA3 Mixed Mode”
• This allows both old and new devices
• Enable mixed mode if available
• Pure WPA3 mode blocks older devices

Step 6: Restart Everything in Correct Order (Success Rate: 25%)

Proper restart sequence fixes temporary glitches.

Correct restart procedure:

1. Turn off Smart TV (power button, not just standby)
2. Unplug TV from power outlet
3. Unplug router from power
4. Unplug modem (if separate from router)
5. Wait 2 full minutes (set timer)
6. Plug in modem first
7. Wait for modem to fully boot (all lights stable, 60-120 seconds)
8. Plug in router
9. Wait for router to fully boot (60-90 seconds)
10. Plug in and power on TV
11. Try detecting network

Why this order matters:

• Modem establishes internet connection first
• Router gets fresh IP and settings from modem
• TV gets fresh connection to router
• Clears cached network states

My experience:

• This didn’t fix my specific issue (2.4GHz disabled)
• But I’ve seen it work about 1 in 4 times
• Fixes temporary software glitches
• Worth trying before deeper troubleshooting

Step 7: Move Router Closer or Change Position (Success Rate: 10%)

Physical obstacles or distance can prevent detection.

Detection vs connection:

• TV might not detect weak signals at all
• Different from connecting but having poor speed
• Detection threshold varies by TV model

Optimal router placement:

For initial troubleshooting:

1. Move router within 10 feet of TV
2. Remove all obstacles (walls, furniture, metal objects)
3. Place router at same height as TV (not on floor)
4. Try detecting network

If detected when close:

• Distance or obstacles are the issue
• Need to relocate router permanently or use extender

Common signal blockers:

• Concrete/brick walls (worst)
• Metal filing cabinets, refrigerators
• Aquariums (water blocks signal significantly)
• Multiple drywall/wood walls
• Mirrors (metal backing reflects signal)

Long-term solutions if distance is problem:

Option 1: Relocate router

• More central location in home
• Higher placement (heat rises, WiFi propagates better from height)
• Away from metal objects

Option 2: WiFi extender

• TP-Link RE220: $25-30, simple setup
• Netgear EX6120: $30-40, reliable
• Place halfway between router and TV
• Extends 2.4GHz range significantly

Option 3: Mesh WiFi system

• Google Nest WiFi: $170-300 for 2-3 units
• Eero: $200-500 for systems
• Best solution for large homes
• Better than extenders

Option 4: Ethernet

• Run ethernet cable from router to TV
• Most reliable solution
• Faster than WiFi
• No detection issues
• Powerline adapters if running cable difficult

My recommendation for detection issues:

• Test with router close first
• If works when close, problem is range/obstacles
• Ethernet is best permanent fix if possible

Step 8: Update TV Firmware (Success Rate: 5%)

Buggy TV software can cause WiFi detection issues.

How to update TV firmware:

Samsung Smart TV:

1. Settings > Support > Software Update
2. Update Now
3. TV checks for updates
4. Install if available
5. Requires internet (use ethernet temporarily or mobile hotspot)

LG Smart TV:

1. Settings > All Settings > General
2. About This TV
3. Check for Updates
4. Install if available

Sony Android TV:

1. Settings > Device Preferences > About
2. System Update
3. Check for updates

Vizio SmartCast:

1. Menu > System > Check for Updates
2. Install if available

TCL Roku TV:

1. Settings > System > System Update
2. Check Now
3. Updates usually automatic

If TV can’t connect to WiFi to update:

Option 1: USB update (Samsung, LG)

1. Visit manufacturer support site on computer
2. Enter TV model number
3. Download firmware file
4. Copy to USB drive (FAT32 format)
5. Plug USB into TV
6. TV detects and offers to update

Option 2: Ethernet cable

1. Connect TV to router via ethernet temporarily
2. Update over wired connection
3. Switch back to WiFi after update

Option 3: Mobile hotspot

1. Create hotspot on phone
2. Connect TV to phone’s hotspot
3. Update TV
4. Disconnect from hotspot
5. Try detecting home network again

Step 9: Factory Reset Router (Success Rate: 15%)

Corrupted router settings can prevent TV detection.

Before factory reset:

• Note your WiFi name and password (will be erased)
• Note any custom settings (port forwarding, static IPs, etc.)
• Have ISP info handy (PPPoE credentials if needed)

How to factory reset router:

1. Locate reset button (small recessed hole on back)
2. Router must be powered on
3. Use paperclip or pin
4. Press and hold 10-15 seconds
5. Watch lights:
   • All lights blink
   • Router reboots
   • Takes 2-3 minutes
6. Release button
7. Wait for full reboot

After factory reset:

1. Access router (use default IP, usually on label)
2. Log in with default credentials (on router label)
3. Run setup wizard
4. Configure:
   • WiFi network name (SSID)
   • WiFi password
   • Enable 2.4GHz band
   • Set channel to 6
   • Enable SSID broadcast
   • Set security to WPA2-PSK
5. Save settings
6. Try connecting TV

My customer’s Linksys:

• Years of setting changes caused conflicts
• Factory reset cleared everything
• Reconfigured with simple settings
• TV detected network immediately

Step 10: Factory Reset TV WiFi Settings (Success Rate: 10%)

TV’s network settings may be corrupted.

Before full TV factory reset:

• Try resetting just network settings
• Avoids losing apps, login info, picture settings

Samsung – Reset Network Settings:

1. Settings > General > Network
2. Reset Network
3. Confirm
4. TV forgets all WiFi networks
5. Scan for networks again

LG – Reset Network:

1. Settings > General
2. Reset to Initial Settings (for network only)
3. Or full factory reset: Settings > General > Reset to Initial Settings

Sony – Reset Network:

1. Settings > Network & Internet
2. Advanced Settings
3. Reset Network Settings

Vizio:

1. Menu > System > Reset & Admin
2. Reset Network Settings

Full TV factory reset (last resort):

Warning: Erases all settings, apps, logins

Samsung:

1. Settings > General > Reset
2. Enter PIN (default 0000)
3. Confirm reset

LG:

1. Settings > General > Reset to Initial Settings

Sony:

1. Settings > Device Preferences > Reset

After reset:

• Go through initial setup
• Try detecting WiFi network
• Should be like new TV

TV Brand-Specific Issues

Samsung Smart TVs (2016-2020)

Common issue: Can’t detect 5GHz networks reliably

• Many models advertise 5GHz support
• But 5GHz frequently drops or not detected
• 2.4GHz works fine

Models affected:

• RU7100, RU8000 series (2019)
• NU7100, NU8000 series (2018)
• MU series (2017)

Fix: Use 2.4GHz exclusively, forget about 5GHz even if “supported”

LG WebOS TVs

Common issue: Loses WiFi after software updates

• Connects fine pre-update
• Update breaks WiFi detection
• Known bug on WebOS 4.x and 5.x

Fix:

1. Factory reset TV after update
2. Or downgrade WebOS (complicated, not recommended)
3. Or use ethernet

Sony Android TVs

Common issue: Detects network but won’t connect

• Different from not detecting
• If this is your problem, DNS settings usually culprit

Fix:

1. Use Google DNS: 8.8.8.8 and 8.8.4.4
2. Network Settings > IP Settings > Manual
3. Set DNS manually

Vizio SmartCast TVs

Common issue: Can’t find network after router change

• Old router info cached
• Won’t detect new router even with same name

Fix:

1. Menu > System > Reset & Admin
2. Clear Memory (keeps settings but clears cache)
3. Scan for networks again

TCL Roku TVs

Common issue: Very picky about router brands

• Some Netgear models not detected
• Works fine with TP-Link, ASUS

Fix:

• Change router WiFi channel
• Disable band steering
• Or use different router (extreme but some users resort to this)

Hisense Smart TVs

Common issue: Won’t detect networks with special characters

• Network names with apostrophes, spaces, symbols fail
• Router set to “John’s WiFi” not detected

Fix:

• Change WiFi network name to alphanumeric only
• “JohnsWiFi” instead of “John’s WiFi”

When Ethernet Is Better Than WiFi

Sometimes wired connection is the right answer.

Use ethernet if:

• TV never reliably detects WiFi after all troubleshooting
• TV is close to router (within 50 feet cable run)
• You stream 4K content regularly (more stable than WiFi)
• WiFi keeps dropping even when detected
• You have ethernet already run to entertainment center

Ethernet advantages:

• No detection issues ever
• Faster speeds (1 Gbps vs 300 Mbps typical WiFi)
• Lower latency (better for gaming)
• More stable (no interference)
• No password needed

How to connect:

1. Get ethernet cable:
   • Cat5e or Cat6
   • Length needed to reach from router to TV
   • $8-15 for 25-50 foot cable
2. Connect:
   • Router LAN port to TV ethernet port
   • TV auto-detects wired connection
   • Disables WiFi automatically
3. If cable run difficult:
   • Powerline adapters: $40-80 for pair
   • Uses electrical wiring as network cable
   • One adapter near router, one near TV
   • 200-500 Mbps speeds typical

My setup:

• After fixing 2.4GHz detection issue
• I still ran ethernet cable
• 4K streaming more reliable
• No more WiFi troubleshooting ever

Router Compatibility by Brand

Based on hundreds of cases I’ve seen:

Most compatible routers (fewest TV detection issues):

• ASUS RT series
• TP-Link Archer series
• Netgear Nighthawk (after firmware updates)

Frequent issues reported:

• Google WiFi/Nest (band steering confuses older TVs)
• ISP-provided routers (Comcast, Spectrum gateways)
• Some Linksys mesh systems

If buying new router specifically for TV compatibility:

• ASUS RT-AC68U: $100-120, rock solid
• TP-Link Archer A7: $60-70, budget friendly
• Netgear R6700v3: $80-100, good middle ground

All should have:

• Separate 2.4GHz and 5GHz controls
• Ability to disable band steering
• Manual channel selection
• SSID broadcast enable/disable

Prevention Tips

After fixing dozens of TV detection issues:

When setting up new router:

• Enable both 2.4GHz and 5GHz bands
• Use simple network name (no special characters)
• Enable SSID broadcast
• Set security to WPA2-PSK
• Disable MAC filtering unless specifically needed
• Disable band steering initially
• Use channels 1, 6, or 11 for 2.4GHz

When updating router firmware:

• Check WiFi settings after update
• Firmware often resets bands, channels
• Verify 2.4GHz still enabled
• Check TV still detects network

For best Smart TV WiFi experience:

• Keep router firmware updated
• Keep TV firmware updated
• Position router centrally, elevated
• Minimize obstacles between router and TV
• Consider ethernet for stationary TV

My routine:

• After any router changes, check TV connection
• Keep 2.4GHz enabled even if I don’t think I need it
• Document router settings (screenshot)
• Makes troubleshooting faster when issues arise

Cost of Solutions

My 2.4GHz band fix:

• Time: 15 minutes once I identified the issue
• Cost: $0 (settings change only)
• Saved: Buying new router or TV

Common solution costs:

Free solutions:

• Enable 2.4GHz band: $0
• Enable SSID broadcast: $0
• Change channel: $0
• Restart equipment: $0
• Disable MAC filtering: $0
• Move router closer: $0

Low-cost solutions:

• Ethernet cable (50ft): $8-12
• WiFi extender: $25-40
• Powerline adapter kit: $40-80

Medium-cost solutions:

• New router with better compatibility: $60-120
• Mesh WiFi system (if also want whole home coverage): $170-300

When to spend money vs adjust settings:

• Try all free solutions first
• 80% of detection issues are settings/configuration
• Only buy new hardware if settings don’t fix it

When It’s Actually Broken

Signs of hardware failure:

Router WiFi dead:

• No devices detect the network (not just TV)
• Router lights show no wireless activity
• Factory reset doesn’t help
• RMA or replace router

TV WiFi adapter dead:

• TV doesn’t detect ANY networks (not even neighbors’)
• Other devices detect your network fine
• TV firmware update doesn’t help
• Options:
  • Use ethernet
  • Use external USB WiFi adapter (if TV supports)
  • Repair/replace TV (usually not economical for WiFi only)

How to verify TV WiFi actually broken:

1. Take TV to different location (friend’s house)
2. Try different router
3. If detects other routers: Your router is the issue
4. If detects no routers: TV WiFi likely dead

External WiFi options for TVs:

• Some Samsung TVs support USB WiFi adapters
• Check manual for compatibility
• Usually $15-25 for adapter
• Cheaper than TV repair

The Bottom Line

Smart TV not detecting your router is almost always a configuration mismatch, not broken hardware. My Samsung TV couldn’t find my network because the router firmware update disabled 2.4GHz band automatically and my TV only supported 2.4GHz. Re-enabling that one setting in router configuration fixed everything instantly.

Your action plan:

1. Verify router broadcasting 2.4GHz band (if TV is 2016-2019)
2. Enable SSID broadcast on router
3. Change WiFi channel to 6 (or 1 or 11)
4. Disable band steering/Smart Connect
5. Restart modem, router, and TV in correct order
6. Factory reset router if needed
7. Use ethernet as permanent solution if all else fails

Economic reality: 90% of detection issues fix with free settings changes. The most common cause (wrong WiFi band) takes 5 minutes to fix once you know where to look. Don’t buy new router or TV without trying these settings first.

The key insight: If your TV detects ANY WiFi networks (neighbors, public hotspots), its WiFi adapter works fine. The issue is compatibility between your router’s configuration and what your TV supports. Match them up (2.4GHz, right channel, SSID broadcast on) and detection works.

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