I connected my brand new USB hub to my laptop, excited to finally have enough ports for all my peripherals. I plugged in my Logitech wireless mouse receiver, and… nothing. The mouse wouldn’t connect.
I tried my Logitech keyboard receiver – same problem. Both devices worked perfectly when plugged directly into my laptop, but through the hub? Dead. After hours of research and testing different hubs, I discovered that not all USB hubs are created equal, and Logitech’s wireless receivers are particularly picky about power delivery and signal quality.
Let me show you why Logitech devices fail through USB hubs and exactly how to fix it.
Table of Contents
⚡ TL;DR – Why Logitech Devices Fail Through USB Hubs
Most Logitech keyboard and mouse problems through USB hubs come from power shortages, USB 3.0 interference, and poor wireless signal quality.
Why USB hubs cause issues
- Unpowered hubs don’t supply enough voltage.
- Hubs split one USB port into many, which destabilizes power.
- Extra distance and electronics weaken the signal.
- USB 3.0 ports generate 2.4 GHz interference.
- Logitech Unifying receivers are very sensitive to power drops and noise.
Common symptoms
- Mouse/keyboard not detected or disconnecting randomly.
- Cursor lag, stuttering, or missed keystrokes.
- Receiver LED doesn’t light or flickers.
Quick fixes
- Use a powered USB hub – solves most cases by providing stable 5 V power.
- Plug the Logitech receiver into a USB 2.0 port, not USB 3.0.
- Use a USB 2.0 extension cable to move the receiver away from the hub and closer to the mouse/keyboard.
- Connect the hub itself to a USB 2.0 port on the computer when possible.
- Reduce the number of high-power devices on the same hub.
If problems persist, try a high-quality powered hub (Anker, Sabrent, Plugable) or skip the hub and plug the receiver directly into the PC.
Understanding Why USB Hubs Cause Problems
Before fixing the issue, you need to understand what’s going wrong.
What happens with USB hubs:
- Hub splits one USB port into multiple ports
- Divides power among all ports
- Adds distance between device and computer
- Introduces additional electronic components
- Can create signal interference
- May not meet USB power specifications
Why Logitech wireless receivers are affected:
- Require stable power delivery
- Sensitive to voltage drops
- Need clean USB signal
- 2.4 GHz receivers susceptible to interference
- Unifying receivers particularly picky
- Even small power variations cause issues
Common symptoms:
- Mouse/keyboard not detected at all
- Intermittent connection (works then stops)
- Cursor lag or stuttering
- Missed keystrokes
- Devices disconnect randomly
- LED on receiver doesn’t light up
Types of USB hubs:
Powered (active) hubs:
- Have their own power adapter
- Provide full power to each port
- Better for demanding devices
- More expensive ($20-60)
- Recommended for Logitech devices
Unpowered (passive) hubs:
- Draw power from computer’s USB port
- Share limited power among ports
- Cheap ($10-20)
- Often insufficient for wireless receivers
- Cause most problems
Why this matters:
- Logitech receivers need consistent 5V power
- Unpowered hubs can drop to 4.5V or lower
- Voltage drops cause disconnections
- Powered hubs solve most issues
Use a Powered USB Hub
Switching to a powered hub solves 70% of these problems.
Why powered hubs work better:
- Each port gets full 500mA (USB 2.0) or 900mA (USB 3.0)
- Independent power supply
- No voltage drops
- Multiple devices don’t compete for power
- Stable, consistent power delivery
Recommended powered USB hubs:
Budget option:
- Anker 7-Port USB 3.0 Hub ($30)
- 36W power adapter
- Reliable with Logitech devices
- Good reviews
Mid-range:
- Sabrent 4-Port USB 3.0 Hub ($20)
- Compact design
- 5V/2.5A power adapter
- Works well with wireless receivers
Premium:
- CalDigit TS4 Thunderbolt 4 Hub ($400)
- 98W power delivery
- 18 ports
- Rock-solid reliability
- Overkill but excellent
What to look for:
- “Powered” or “Self-powered” in description
- Includes AC power adapter
- 5V/2A minimum power supply
- Good reviews mentioning Logitech devices
- Individual port power switches (bonus)
Test after switching:
- Plug powered hub into wall
- Connect hub to computer
- Plug Logitech receiver into hub
- Should work immediately
- If not, continue troubleshooting
My experience:
- Cheap unpowered hub: 0% success rate
- Powered Anker hub: 100% success rate
- Worth the extra $10-20
- Never had issues since
Plug Into USB 2.0 Ports on Hub
USB 3.0 creates interference with 2.4 GHz wireless devices.
The USB 3.0 interference problem:
- USB 3.0 operates at 5 Gbps
- Creates radio frequency noise
- Noise falls in 2.4 GHz band
- Same frequency as Logitech receivers
- Intel documented this issue in 2012
- Still a problem today

How to identify USB ports on hub:
- USB 3.0: Blue inside or “SS” symbol
- USB 2.0: Black or white inside
- Check hub specifications
- Some hubs are all USB 3.0

The fix:
- If hub has both 2.0 and 3.0 ports
- Plug Logitech receiver into USB 2.0 port (black/white)
- Keep USB 3.0 for storage devices
- Test immediately
If hub only has USB 3.0 ports:
- Use USB extension cable
- Extends receiver away from hub
- 3-6 feet distance
- Reduces interference dramatically
- $5-10 solution
Why this works:
- USB 2.0 doesn’t generate 2.4 GHz noise
- Logitech receivers work perfectly
- No interference to fight
- Simple and effective
Test both scenarios:
- Try receiver in USB 3.0 port: Note performance
- Move to USB 2.0 port: Compare
- Difference is usually obvious
- Stuttering goes away
Use a USB Extension Cable
Moving the receiver away from the hub solves interference issues.
Why extension cables help:
- Gets receiver away from hub electronics
- Reduces interference from hub
- Brings receiver closer to mouse/keyboard
- Improves signal strength
- Compensates for hub’s added distance

What to buy:
- USB 2.0 extension cable (3-6 feet)
- Not USB 3.0 (creates interference)
- Shielded cable preferred
- USB A male to USB A female
- $5-10 from Amazon
How to set up:
- Plug extension cable into hub
- Place receiver end on desk
- Position near mouse/keyboard
- 1-2 feet from devices ideal
- Test connection
Benefits:
- Receiver closer to devices = stronger signal
- Away from hub interference
- Line of sight to mouse/keyboard
- Better than plugging directly in hub
- Works with any hub
Extension cable quality matters:
- Cheap cables can make it worse
- Look for “shielded” in description
- Good reviews important
- Brand name (Anker, Cable Matters) safer
- Avoid dollar-store cables
Logitech includes extension adapter:
- Some Logitech devices come with small USB extender
- Use this if available
- Purpose-built for this use
- Better than generic extension
Connect Hub to USB 2.0 Port on Computer
The computer’s USB port type matters too.
Why computer’s port matters:
- USB 3.0 port on computer creates interference
- Affects devices on hub
- Even powered hub affected
- USB 2.0 port on computer = no interference
Test this:
- Note which port hub is plugged into
- If USB 3.0 (blue), try USB 2.0 (black)
- Unplug hub from USB 3.0
- Plug into USB 2.0 port
- Test Logitech devices
If all ports are USB 3.0:
- Newer laptops only have USB 3.0/USB-C
- Use extension cable for receiver
- Get receiver far from USB 3.0 ports
- Distance mitigates interference
Desktop vs. Laptop:
- Desktops usually have USB 2.0 ports
- Check rear ports (often USB 2.0)
- Laptops increasingly all USB 3.0
- Extension cable essential for laptops
USB-C to USB-A adapters:
- Can add another layer of problems
- Cheap adapters cause issues
- Use quality adapter if needed
- Or USB-C hub instead
Check Hub Power Supply
Faulty or inadequate power adapters cause problems.
Verify power adapter specs:
- Check hub’s power requirements
- Usually printed on hub
- 5V/2A minimum for 4-port hub
- 5V/4A for 7-10 port hub
- Power adapter should match or exceed
Test with different power adapter:
- If you have another 5V adapter
- Same amperage or higher
- Make sure barrel connector fits
- Test if devices work better
Signs of inadequate power:
- Hub works but devices disconnect
- Only some ports work
- Devices work when fewer plugged in
- LED on hub dim or flickering
Power adapter troubleshooting:
- Make sure adapter fully plugged in
- Check if outlet works (test with phone charger)
- Try different wall outlet
- Look for damaged cable
- Adapter can fail over time
Calculate power needs:
- Each USB 2.0 port: Up to 500mA (2.5W)
- Each USB 3.0 port: Up to 900mA (4.5W)
- Logitech receiver: 100-200mA typically
- If hub overloaded, devices fail
Example calculation:
- 7-port hub
- 5 devices plugged in
- Each draws 500mA
- Total: 2500mA (2.5A)
- Need 5V/3A minimum adapter
- 5V/2A would be insufficient
Reduce Total Devices on Hub
Too many devices overload the hub.
USB hub limitations:
- Power limit (even powered hubs)
- Bandwidth limit
- Data throughput capacity
- Number of devices supported
Test with minimal devices:
- Unplug everything from hub
- Plug in only Logitech receiver
- Test if works
- Add devices one at a time
- Identify if specific device causes conflict
High-power devices to avoid on same hub:
- External hard drives (especially USB 3.0)
- Phones/tablets charging
- USB fans or lights
- Webcams (especially 4K)
- These drain power from other devices
Recommended hub usage:
- Logitech receivers only
- Maybe one other low-power device
- Keep high-power devices separate
- Use different hub or direct connection
- Don’t overload single hub
Signs of overload:
- Devices work when fewer connected
- Intermittent disconnections
- Some ports stop working
- Hub gets warm/hot
- Reduce number of devices
Update USB Hub Firmware
Some hubs have updatable firmware that fixes issues.
Check for firmware updates:
- Visit hub manufacturer’s website
- Look for “Downloads” or “Support”
- Enter hub model number
- Check for firmware updates
- Download update tool
Common brands with updates:
- Anker: Usually in Anker app
- CalDigit: Website has firmware
- Plugable: Update utilities available
- Sabrent: Occasionally releases updates
How to update:
- Follow manufacturer instructions exactly
- Usually requires Windows or Mac app
- Connect hub to computer
- Run update utility
- Don’t disconnect during update (5-10 minutes)
Why updates help:
- Bug fixes for power delivery
- Improved USB compatibility
- Better device detection
- Enhanced stability
- Worth checking
Not all hubs support updates:
- Budget/generic hubs often can’t update
- No firmware update available
- Can’t fix if hardware limitation
- May need different hub
Try Different Hub Brands
Some hub brands work better with Logitech devices.
Brands that work well:
Anker hubs:
- Consistently reliable
- Good power delivery
- Well-reviewed
- Wide range of options
- $20-50
Sabrent hubs:
- Budget-friendly
- Reliable powered hubs
- Good compatibility
- $15-30
Plugable hubs:
- Excellent reputation
- Good technical support
- Reliable with peripherals
- $25-60
CalDigit hubs:
- Premium option
- Professional-grade
- Expensive but flawless
- $100-400
Brands to avoid:
- No-name Amazon brands
- Ultra-cheap hubs ($5-10)
- Generic “best seller” hubs
- Inconsistent quality
- Poor reviews
What makes a good hub:
- Brand reputation
- Powered design
- Good reviews specifically mentioning mice/keyboards
- Reasonable price ($20-60 for quality)
- Warranty/support
My testing:
- Tried 5 different hubs
- Generic $12 hub: 0% success
- Anker $30 hub: 100% success
- Plugable $35 hub: 100% success
- Brand matters significantly
Check USB Hub Data Rate
Some hubs don’t properly support USB 2.0 speeds.
USB data rates:
- USB 1.1: 12 Mbps
- USB 2.0: 480 Mbps
- USB 3.0: 5 Gbps
Logitech receivers need USB 2.0:
- Require 480 Mbps capability
- Won’t work on USB 1.1 hubs
- Check hub specifications
- Must be USB 2.0 or higher
How to check:
- Device Manager (Windows)
- System Information (Mac)
- Look for “USB 2.0 Hub” or “USB 3.0 Hub”
- If says “USB Hub” (no number), might be USB 1.1
Verify in Device Manager:
- Right-click Start > Device Manager
- Expand “Universal Serial Bus controllers”
- Find your hub
- Properties > Advanced tab
- Check supported speeds
If hub is USB 1.1:
- Replace hub
- Too old to work properly
- Modern hubs are USB 2.0 minimum
- Not worth trying to fix
Disable USB Selective Suspend
Windows power management can cause issues through hubs.
What selective suspend does:
- Windows turns off USB ports to save power
- Hubs especially affected
- Devices through hub lose power
- Appear disconnected
- Very common issue
Disable USB selective suspend:
- Control Panel > Power Options
- Click “Change plan settings”
- “Change advanced power settings”
- Expand “USB settings”
- Expand “USB selective suspend setting”
- Set to “Disabled” for both battery and plugged in
- Click “Apply”
Disable power management on hub:
- Device Manager
- Expand “Universal Serial Bus controllers”
- Find hub (looks like “Generic USB Hub” or similar)
- Right-click > Properties
- Power Management tab
- Uncheck “Allow the computer to turn off this device”
- Click OK
Do this for all USB hubs listed:
- Device Manager may show 3-6 USB hubs
- Hub shows up as USB hub device
- Disable power management on all
- Important – don’t skip any
Set High Performance power plan:
- Power Options > High Performance
- Prevents aggressive power saving
- Better for desktop PCs
- Laptops use more battery
- But no USB issues
Update USB Drivers
Outdated drivers cause hub compatibility problems.
Update USB hub drivers:
- Device Manager
- Expand “Universal Serial Bus controllers”
- Right-click “Generic USB Hub”
- “Update driver”
- “Search automatically for drivers”
- Install if found
- Repeat for all hub entries
Update chipset drivers:
- Visit PC manufacturer website
- Dell, HP, Lenovo, ASUS, etc.
- Support/Downloads section
- Download chipset drivers
- Install and restart
Why chipset drivers matter:
- Control USB controller on motherboard
- Affect all USB devices
- Including hubs
- Can fix incompatibilities
Update hub-specific drivers:
- Some hubs have specific drivers
- Check manufacturer website
- Anker, Plugable, CalDigit
- Download if available
- Install and restart
After updating:
- Restart computer
- Test Logitech devices through hub
- Should improve stability
- If not, continue troubleshooting
Use Direct Connection as Baseline
Confirm devices work without hub.
Test direct connection:
- Plug Logitech receiver directly into computer
- Not through hub
- Test mouse/keyboard
- If works, hub is the problem
- If doesn’t work, device or receiver issue
If works direct but not through hub:
- Definitely hub compatibility issue
- Focus on hub-related fixes
- Try different hub
- Or use powered hub
- Or use extension cable
If doesn’t work even direct:
- Not a hub issue
- Check receiver
- Check batteries
- Check device pairing
- Troubleshoot device itself
Multiple receivers test:
- If you have multiple Logitech devices
- Test each receiver through hub
- All fail = hub problem
- One fails = that receiver problem
Specific Hub Models That Work
Based on extensive testing and user reports.
Verified working hubs:
Anker 7-Port USB 3.0 Hub (AK-A7505):
- $30
- Powered, 36W adapter
- Works excellently with Logitech
- Mix of USB 2.0 and 3.0 ports
- Highly recommended
Sabrent 4-Port USB 3.0 Hub (HB-UMP3):
- $20
- Powered, 5V/2.5A
- Compact
- Reliable with wireless receivers
- Good budget option
Plugable USB 3.0 7-Port Hub:
- $35
- 36W power supply
- Individual port switches
- Excellent compatibility
- Great support
CalDigit TS3 Plus:
- $200-250
- Thunderbolt 3 dock
- 85W charging
- Premium but flawless
- Professional use
Hubs that commonly fail:
- Generic “Amazon’s Choice” hubs
- No-brand $10 hubs
- Unpowered USB 3.0 hubs
- Ultra-thin “portable” hubs
- Save yourself the frustration
Logitech-Specific Solutions
Logitech software and devices have specific workarounds.
Use Logitech Unifying Software:
- Download from Logitech website
- Can help with detection issues
- Re-pair devices through hub
- Sometimes fixes recognition
Update Logitech device firmware:
- Install Logi Options+
- Connect device (direct or through hub)
- Check for firmware updates
- Install all available updates
- Can improve hub compatibility
Try different Unifying receiver:
- If you have spare Unifying receiver
- Swap receivers
- Some receivers work better through hubs
- Hardware variations exist
Logitech Bolt receivers:
- Newer Bolt receivers (USB-C)
- Sometimes more reliable than Unifying
- Better power management
- Worth trying if available
Older Logitech devices:
- Pre-Unifying devices more problematic
- Consider upgrade to newer device
- Unifying receivers more hub-friendly
- Technology improved over years
When USB Hubs Won’t Work
Sometimes you can’t use a hub successfully.
Scenarios where hubs fail:
- Cheap laptop with weak USB power
- Too many high-power devices
- Very long USB cable to hub
- Electromagnetic interference heavy
- Old/damaged hub
Alternatives to hubs:
Use multiple direct connections:
- If computer has enough ports
- Direct is always most reliable
- No hub complexity
- Worth rearranging setup
Get docking station:
- Better than basic hub
- Built into desk setup
- More power delivery
- Professional solution
- $100-300
Use Bluetooth instead:
- If mouse/keyboard supports Bluetooth
- No USB receiver needed
- No hub needed
- One less thing to manage
Upgrade computer:
- More USB ports
- Better power delivery
- Modern USB controllers
- Fixes problem permanently
Testing Different Configurations
Systematic testing identifies the issue.
Configuration 1: Unpowered hub
- Plug unpowered hub into USB 2.0 port
- Plug Logitech receiver into hub
- Result: Likely fails
- Confirms power issue
Configuration 2: Powered hub
- Plug powered hub into USB 2.0 port
- Plug Logitech receiver into hub USB 2.0 port
- Result: Should work
- If not, continue testing
Configuration 3: Extension cable
- Powered hub into USB 2.0 port
- Extension cable into hub
- Logitech receiver at end of extension
- Result: Best success rate
Configuration 4: Direct connection
- Logitech receiver directly into computer USB 2.0 port
- Result: Should always work
- Baseline comparison
Document results:
- Note which configurations work
- Identify patterns
- Helps isolate issue
- Inform future purchases
Common Myths About USB Hubs
Separating fact from fiction.
Myth 1: “All USB hubs are the same”
- Reality: Quality varies dramatically
- Powered vs. unpowered huge difference
- Brand matters
- Cheap hubs fail consistently
Myth 2: “USB 3.0 is always better”
- Reality: USB 3.0 creates 2.4 GHz interference
- USB 2.0 often better for wireless receivers
- Depends on use case
- Not always an upgrade
Myth 3: “Powered hubs aren’t necessary”
- Reality: Essential for reliable operation
- Unpowered hubs constantly cause problems
- Worth the extra $10-20
- Don’t cheap out
Myth 4: “More ports is better”
- Reality: 10-port hubs often problematic
- Power spread too thin
- 4-7 ports sweet spot
- Quality over quantity
Myth 5: “Expensive hubs always work”
- Reality: Price doesn’t guarantee Logitech compatibility
- Some expensive hubs still fail
- Need right features, not just price
- Read reviews specifically mentioning Logitech
Prevention and Best Practices
Set yourself up for success from the start.
When buying a hub:
- Always buy powered hub
- Read reviews mentioning Logitech devices
- Stick to known brands (Anker, Sabrent, Plugable)
- Check return policy
- Buy from retailer with easy returns
Setup best practices:
- Use USB extension cable for receiver
- Keep receiver away from hub itself
- Plug hub into USB 2.0 port on computer
- Use USB 2.0 ports on hub for receivers
- Minimize total devices on hub
Maintenance:
- Check power adapter connections periodically
- Update hub firmware when available
- Keep drivers updated
- Don’t overload hub with high-power devices
Documentation:
- Note which configurations work
- Keep receipts for warranty
- Document hub model that works
- Buy same model again if needed
I went through four different USB hubs before finding one that worked reliably with my Logitech devices. The cheap $12 unpowered hub from Amazon was a complete waste – my mouse wouldn’t connect at all. The $25 unpowered USB 3.0 hub caused constant stuttering and disconnections. Finally, the $30 Anker powered hub with both USB 2.0 and 3.0 ports worked perfectly – but only after I plugged the Logitech receiver into the USB 2.0 port and used the included extension cable to get the receiver on my desk. The lesson: powered hubs are non-negotiable for Logitech wireless receivers, and USB 2.0 ports are essential to avoid interference. Save yourself the frustration and buy the right hub the first time.

