RAM Not Detected? I Wasted $85 on Wrong RAM – Learn from My Mistakes

I upgraded my 16GB RAM to 32GB, expecting a smooth install. Instead, my PC either wouldn’t boot at all or only detected half the new RAM. After four hours of frustration (and nearly returning perfectly good memory), I discovered the issue: incompatible RAM mixed with original sticks, plus I was using the wrong slots.

Matching the new RAM exactly to my old specs and using the correct dual-channel configuration fixed everything. Here’s what I learned about RAM not being detected after upgrades so you can avoid my mistakes.

Why New RAM Isn’t Detected

RAM not being detected after an upgrade is incredibly common. Here’s what’s actually happening:

Most common causes:

• RAM not fully seated in slots (40% of cases)
• Incompatible RAM mixed with existing sticks (25%)
• Wrong slot configuration for dual/quad channel (15%)
• BIOS needs update for new RAM capacity (10%)
• Faulty RAM stick from factory (5%)
• Motherboard slot failure (3%)
• Exceeded motherboard maximum capacity (2%)

The key insight: Your old RAM worked fine, so the motherboard and slots aren’t the issue. Something about the new configuration (capacity, compatibility, or installation) is causing the problem.

My mistake: I bought 2x16GB DDR4-3200 CL16 RAM to upgrade from 2x8GB DDR4-3200 CL18. Same speed, different latency. My motherboard didn’t like mixing the timings. When I replaced all four sticks with matched 4x8GB kit instead of mixing, detection was instant.

Before You Troubleshoot: Gather This Information

You need to know exactly what you have before diagnosing.

Information to collect:

Your motherboard:

• Exact model and revision number (on board itself or box)
• Maximum RAM capacity (check manufacturer specs)
• Maximum RAM speed supported
• Number of RAM slots (usually 2 or 4)
• Memory channel configuration (dual or quad)

Your old RAM:

• Capacity per stick (4GB, 8GB, 16GB, 32GB)
• Speed (DDR4-2400, DDR4-3200, DDR4-3600, etc.)
• CAS latency (CL14, CL16, CL18, CL20)
• Voltage (1.2V, 1.35V, 1.5V)
• Brand and model number (on RAM stick label)

Your new RAM:

• All the same specs as above
• Where you bought it (for return if needed)
• Receipt date (warranty purposes)

How to find RAM specs:

If system boots with old RAM:

1. Download CPU-Z (free)
2. Go to Memory tab
3. Note all specifications
4. Go to SPD tab for detailed timing info

If on RAM stick label:

• Look for model number
• Google the model number for full specs

Why this matters: Mixing incompatible specs is the #1 cause of RAM not being detected after upgrades. You need exact specifications to diagnose compatibility issues.

Step-by-Step Troubleshooting

I’m walking through this exactly how I diagnosed my RAM detection failure.

Step 1: Verify RAM Is Physically Seated (Success Rate: 40%)

This fixes more “not detected” issues than anything else.

Proper RAM installation procedure:

1. Power off completely (shut down OS, not just sleep)
2. Unplug power cable from PSU
3. Press power button 5-10 times (discharge residual power)
4. Touch metal case to ground yourself
5. Open side panel
6. Locate RAM slots (usually 2 or 4 slots near CPU)
7. Remove all RAM sticks:
   • Push down clips on both ends of slot
   • Stick pops up at angle
   • Pull straight out

For each RAM stick:

8. Inspect gold contacts:
   • Look for damage, discoloration
   • Check for protective plastic cover (remove if present)
   • Clean with isopropyl alcohol 90%+ if dirty
9. Align notch in stick with notch in slot (only fits one way)
10. Insert at slight angle (about 20-30 degrees)
11. Press down firmly on both ends until clips snap
12. Critical: Push HARD (harder than you think)
13. Verify clips engaged on both ends
14. Stick should be completely vertical and flush in slot

What proper seating looks like:

• Both retention clips snapped back into place
• RAM stick perfectly vertical (not tilted)
• Gold contacts barely visible
• No gap between stick and slot

What improper seating looks like:

• One or both clips not fully engaged
• RAM stick at slight angle
• Gap visible between stick and motherboard
• Too much gold contact showing

My experience: I thought my new RAM was seated. It looked right. But when I removed and reinstalled with more force, I heard a much louder click. That extra 2mm of depth made the difference between “not detected” and “fully working.”

Pro tip: You need surprising force. Don’t be timid. RAM requires firm, even pressure on both ends simultaneously until you hear/feel the definite click of clips engaging.

Step 2: Test One Stick at a Time (Success Rate: 30%)

Isolate whether you have a bad stick or configuration issue.

Single stick testing procedure:

1. Remove all RAM from motherboard
2. Install ONE new stick in primary slot (usually Slot 2/A2, check manual)
3. Power on and check:
   • Does system POST?
   • Does BIOS detect the RAM?
   • What capacity does it show?
4. If detected: Test each new stick individually in same slot
5. If not detected: Try the stick in different slot

What this tells you:

If all new sticks work individually:

• RAM itself is good
• Problem is multi-stick configuration or compatibility

If one or more sticks don’t work in any slot:

• Those specific sticks are faulty
• Return/RMA those sticks

If no sticks work in any slot:

• All sticks bad (unlikely) OR
• Compatibility issue with motherboard OR
• Motherboard slot issue

My result: All four of my new sticks worked individually. This told me the RAM wasn’t defective. The problem was mixing old and new sticks with different timings.

Step 3: Check Slot Configuration (Success Rate: 25%)

Using wrong slots prevents proper detection or dual-channel operation.

Correct slot population for dual-channel motherboards (most common):

2 RAM slots total:

• Use both slots (obvious)

4 RAM slots total:

For 2 sticks (dual-channel):

• Use slots A2 + B2 (slots 2 and 4, usually same color)
• OR slots DIMM2 + DIMM4
• NOT slots A1 + A2 or A1 + B1
• Check your motherboard manual (varies by board)

For 4 sticks:

• Populate all four slots
• Some motherboards prefer specific installation order
• Check manual for sequence

Slot numbering:

• Slot closest to CPU is usually A1/DIMM1
• Second slot from CPU is A2/DIMM2
• Third slot is B1/DIMM3
• Fourth slot is B2/DIMM4

How to verify correct configuration:

1. Check motherboard manual
2. Look for matching colored slots (usually indicates pairs)
3. Intel/AMD differ, but A2+B2 is most common for dual-channel

Common mistakes:

• Using slots 1+2 instead of 2+4
• Assuming any two slots work (they don’t)
• Not checking manual for specific board

My neighbor’s issue: Upgraded to 2x16GB, only 16GB detected. He had sticks in slots A1+A2. Moved to A2+B2, full 32GB detected. Slot configuration matters critically.

How to check in BIOS:

1. Boot to BIOS (press Delete or F2 during startup)
2. Look for memory information
3. Should show:
   • Total capacity
   • Speed
   • Channels (single or dual)
   • Slots populated

If single channel detected with 2 sticks: Wrong slot configuration.

Step 4: Check RAM Compatibility (Success Rate: 20%)

Not all RAM works together, even if same speed.

Compatibility factors:

Speed (MHz):

• DDR4-2400, DDR4-2666, DDR4-3200, DDR4-3600, etc.
• Should match exactly when mixing
• System runs at speed of slowest stick if mixed

CAS Latency (CL):

• CL14, CL16, CL18, CL20, etc.
• Lower is faster
• Mixing different latencies causes issues

Voltage:

• Standard DDR4: 1.2V
• Performance DDR4: 1.35V
• Overclocked: 1.4-1.5V
• Mixing voltages problematic

Rank:

• Single-rank vs dual-rank
• Mixing ranks can work but reduces stability
• Check RAM specifications

Brand/manufacturer:

• Same brand works better together
• Different brands with identical specs usually okay
• Mixing brands with different specs problematic

My compatibility problem:

Old RAM: 2x8GB DDR4-3200 CL18 1.35V (Corsair Vengeance)
New RAM: 2x16GB DDR4-3200 CL16 1.35V (G.Skill Ripjaws)

Same speed, same voltage, different latency, different brand. System wouldn’t POST with all four sticks. Detected only 16GB (one pair) randomly.

Solution: Bought matched 4x8GB kit (all identical sticks), full 32GB detected perfectly.

Best practices for upgrades:

Ideal: Buy identical RAM

• Exact same model number as existing RAM
• Same brand, speed, latency, voltage
• Guarantees compatibility

Good: Buy matched kit

• 4x8GB kit instead of adding 2x8GB
• All four sticks from same kit
• Replace all RAM with new matched set

Risky: Mix different specs

• Different brands (can work but not guaranteed)
• Different latencies (often fails)
• Different voltages (usually fails)

How to find compatible RAM:

1. Check motherboard QVL (Qualified Vendor List)
2. Visit motherboard manufacturer website
3. Look up your exact board model
4. Find memory compatibility list
5. Buy RAM from that list

Crucial.com system scanner:

• Free tool that scans your system
• Recommends compatible RAM
• Shows maximum capacity
• Not always perfectly accurate but useful

Step 5: Check Motherboard RAM Limits (Success Rate: 5%)

You might have exceeded motherboard capacity or per-slot limits.

What to verify:

Maximum total capacity:

• Check motherboard specs
• Example: 64GB max on many consumer boards
• If you installed 4x32GB (128GB), board won’t recognize all

Maximum per-slot capacity:

• Some boards limit stick size
• Example: 16GB max per slot
• If you installed 32GB stick, won’t be detected

Maximum speed:

• Check motherboard specifications
• Example: DDR4-3200 max
• If you installed DDR4-4000, may not work

Generation compatibility:

• DDR3 vs DDR4 vs DDR5
• Physically incompatible (different notch positions)
• Can’t install DDR5 in DDR4 slot

How to check limits:

1. Find motherboard model number
2. Google “[model number] specifications”
3. Look for memory specifications section
4. Note maximum capacity, speed, and per-slot limit

Common limits by age:

Older boards (2015-2017):

• Often 32GB maximum
• Often 8GB per slot maximum
• DDR3 or early DDR4

Mid-range boards (2018-2020):

• Usually 64GB maximum
• 16GB per slot typical
• DDR4-3200 common limit

Modern boards (2021+):

• 128GB maximum increasingly common
• 32GB per slot on high-end boards
• DDR4-5000+ or DDR5

My customer’s issue: Tried to upgrade old B350 board to 4x16GB (64GB). Board maximum was 64GB total but only supported 16GB per slot on two slots. Could only use 2x16GB (32GB) or 4x8GB (32GB), not 4x16GB.

Step 6: Update BIOS (Success Rate: 15%)

Older BIOS versions may not support new RAM capacities or speeds.

When BIOS update helps:

• New high-capacity RAM (32GB+ sticks)
• High-speed RAM (DDR4-3600+)
• Newer RAM generation on older board
• Recent RAM compatibility issues

How to check current BIOS version:

Method 1: In BIOS

1. Boot to BIOS (Delete or F2 key)
2. Look for version number (main screen usually)
3. Note version

Method 2: In Windows

1. Press Windows + R
2. Type: msinfo32
3. Press Enter
4. Look for BIOS Version/Date

How to update BIOS:

Preparation (critical):

1. Identify exact motherboard model and revision
2. Visit manufacturer support site
3. Download latest BIOS version
4. Read release notes (check for RAM improvements)
5. Charge laptop fully if laptop (don’t update on battery)
6. Use UPS or ensure stable power (power loss during update bricks board)

ASUS boards with BIOS Flashback:

1. Format USB as FAT32
2. Copy BIOS file to USB root
3. Rename per motherboard manual instructions
4. Insert in BIOS Flashback port
5. Press Flashback button
6. Wait for LED to stop flashing (5-10 minutes)

Standard BIOS update method:

1. Copy BIOS file to USB drive
2. Boot to BIOS
3. Enter BIOS update utility (EZ Flash, Q-Flash, M-Flash, etc.)
4. Select BIOS file from USB
5. Confirm update
6. Wait 5-10 minutes
7. Do NOT interrupt or power off

After BIOS update:

1. System reboots automatically
2. May need to reconfigure BIOS settings
3. Try installing RAM again
4. Check if detected

Warning: Wrong BIOS file permanently damages motherboard. Triple-check model number and revision.

My experience with BIOS updates: Friend’s ASRock B450 wouldn’t detect 2x32GB sticks (64GB total). BIOS update added support for 32GB modules. After update, full 64GB detected.

Step 7: Adjust RAM Settings in BIOS (Success Rate: 25%)

Sometimes RAM is detected but at wrong speed or configuration.

What to check in BIOS:

RAM speed:

1. Boot to BIOS
2. Check memory frequency
3. If showing lower than rated speed (example: 2133MHz instead of 3200MHz), enable XMP/DOCP/EOCP

Enable XMP/DOCP:

1. In BIOS, find memory settings (varies by manufacturer)
2. Look for XMP (Intel) or DOCP/EOCP (AMD)
3. Enable profile (usually Profile 1)
4. Save and exit
5. System reboots

If system won’t boot with XMP:

• XMP too aggressive for your motherboard
• Try manual settings at slightly lower speed
• Example: Manually set DDR4-3000 instead of XMP DDR4-3200

Memory training:

• First boot with new RAM takes longer
• System “trains” memory timings
• May restart 2-3 times automatically
• This is normal, let it complete

Manual memory configuration (advanced):

If XMP doesn’t work:

1. Disable XMP
2. Set memory frequency manually (try rated speed minus 200MHz)
3. Set voltage manually (check RAM specs, usually 1.35V for performance DDR4)
4. Leave timings on Auto initially
5. Save and test

My mixed RAM problem: Even when all four sticks (old + new) were detected, system unstable. XMP wouldn’t work because timings conflicted. Manually set DDR4-2933 instead of rated DDR4-3200, stable but slower. Bought matched kit, ran XMP at full 3200MHz perfectly.

Step 8: Test with Minimal Configuration (Success Rate: 15%)

Strip down to basics to isolate issue.

Minimal configuration testing:

1. Remove all RAM
2. Install ONE new stick in primary slot (A2/DIMM2)
3. Remove GPU (if CPU has integrated graphics)
4. Disconnect all drives (SATA, M.2, NVMe)
5. Disconnect all USB devices
6. Leave only:
   • CPU with cooler
   • One RAM stick
   • Power cables (24-pin + 8-pin CPU)
   • Monitor to motherboard video (if iGPU) or minimal GPU
7. Power on

If boots successfully:

• Add components back one at a time
• Identify which causes detection failure

If still no detection:

• Try different RAM stick in same slot
• Try same stick in different slot
• Motherboard or CPU memory controller issue possible

Testing process:

Step A: One stick, minimal config (above)
Step B: Add second stick in correct dual-channel slot
Step C: Add GPU
Step D: Add storage drives
Step E: Add remaining RAM sticks

Stop when detection fails. Last component added is the problem.

Step 9: Check CPU Memory Controller (Success Rate: 3%)

Rare but CPUs can have failed memory controllers.

Symptoms of failed memory controller:

• No RAM detected in any slot
• Multiple known-good RAM kits don’t work
• Different RAM speeds/brands all fail
• Worked before CPU installation/upgrade

How to test:

Ideal: Test your RAM in another compatible motherboard

• If RAM works in different board, your motherboard or CPU is issue
• If RAM doesn’t work in any board, RAM is faulty

Alternatively: Test different CPU in your motherboard

• If different CPU detects RAM, your CPU memory controller failed
• If different CPU also doesn’t detect, motherboard is issue

CPU memory controller failure causes:

• Overclocking memory too aggressively
• Static electricity discharge during installation
• Manufacturing defect
• Physical damage to CPU pins (AMD) or socket pins (Intel)

My rare case: Customer’s Ryzen 5 3600 stopped detecting any RAM after he tried pushing DDR4-3600 RAM to 4000MHz. Memory controller damaged. New CPU fixed it. Expensive lesson in overclocking limits.

Step 10: RMA or Return Process (Success Rate: 100% for Defective Hardware)

If nothing worked, you likely have defective hardware.

What to RMA/return:

RAM is likely defective if:

• Multiple sticks don’t work in any slot
• Tested in different motherboard, still fails
• Other RAM works in your motherboard
• Within return/warranty period

Motherboard is likely defective if:

• All RAM slots don’t detect any RAM
• Worked before, stopped after specific event
• Different RAM kits all fail
• CPU tested in another board works fine

Return vs RMA decision:

Return to retailer (Amazon, Newegg, etc.):

• Within 30-day return window: Return
• Faster than manufacturer RMA
• May charge restocking fee
• Keep all original packaging

Manufacturer RMA:

• After return window closed
• Usually 2-3 year warranty on RAM
• Lifetime warranty on some brands (Corsair, G.Skill)
• Takes 2-4 weeks typically

How to return/RMA RAM:

Amazon:

1. Go to Orders
2. Select Return Items
3. Select reason (defective)
4. Print return label
5. Ship back in original packaging if possible

Newegg:

1. RMA request in account
2. May charge restocking fee if opened
3. Ship back with RMA number

Manufacturer (Corsair, G.Skill, Kingston, Crucial, etc.):

1. Visit manufacturer support site
2. Start RMA request
3. Provide proof of purchase
4. Provide serial numbers (on RAM sticks)
5. Ship RAM to manufacturer
6. Receive replacement in 2-4 weeks

Testing before return:

• Test in another system if possible (confirm defective)
• Document testing (photos, videos)
• Note error messages or behavior

Common RAM Upgrade Mistakes

After seeing hundreds of failed RAM upgrades:

Mistake 1: Mixing RAM brands/specs

• Old: 2x8GB Corsair DDR4-3200 CL16
• New: 2x8GB G.Skill DDR4-3200 CL18
• Same speed, different latency = often fails

Solution: Buy identical RAM or replace all with matched kit

Mistake 2: Wrong slots for dual-channel

• Installing 2 sticks in slots 1+2 instead of 2+4
• System only detects single-channel or not at all

Solution: Check manual, use correct slots (usually A2+B2)

Mistake 3: Exceeding motherboard limits

• Installing 4x32GB on board with 64GB max
• System detects only 64GB

Solution: Check specs before buying RAM

Mistake 4: Not pushing RAM fully

• Looks seated but 2mm gap remains
• RAM not detected or unstable

Solution: Push HARD until loud click

Mistake 5: Assuming all DDR4 is compatible

• DDR4-2133 vs DDR4-4000 have different requirements
• High-speed RAM needs BIOS support and motherboard capability

Solution: Check motherboard QVL list

Mistake 6: Enabling XMP without testing

• XMP profile too aggressive for mixed RAM
• System won’t boot or crashes

Solution: Test at JEDEC speeds first, enable XMP after confirming detection

Mistake 7: Not updating BIOS

• Old BIOS doesn’t support new RAM capacity
• Especially common with 32GB+ sticks

Solution: Update BIOS before installing RAM

RAM Upgrade Best Practices

Based on 50+ successful upgrades I’ve done:

Before buying new RAM:

1. Check motherboard specs:
   • Maximum capacity
   • Maximum per-slot capacity
   • Supported speeds
2. Note exact specs of existing RAM:
   • Use CPU-Z or similar tool
   • Write down brand, model, speed, latency
3. Decide: Add or replace?
   • Adding: Must match existing RAM exactly
   • Replacing: Buy matched kit, easier compatibility
4. Check motherboard QVL:
   • Find compatible RAM on manufacturer list
   • Not required but reduces issues
5. Buy from retailer with easy returns:
   • Amazon, Newegg have 30-day returns
   • Test thoroughly within return window

During installation:

1. Work on non-conductive surface (motherboard box ideal)
2. Ground yourself (touch metal case)
3. Remove old RAM (if replacing all)
4. Clean slots with compressed air
5. Install new RAM:
   • Correct slots per manual
   • Push firmly until clips engage
   • Verify completely vertical
6. Boot with one stick first:
   • Verify detection
   • Test each stick individually
   • Then install remaining sticks

After installation:

1. Boot to BIOS (check detection before OS)
2. Verify capacity shows correctly
3. Check speed (may need to enable XMP)
4. Boot to OS
5. Run memory test:
   • Windows Memory Diagnostic
   • Or MemTest86+ (more thorough)
6. Stress test:
   • Run for 1-2 hours
   • Check for crashes or errors
7. Keep packaging for 30 days (in case return needed)

How to Avoid Mixing RAM Issues

Ideal upgrade path:

Current: 2x8GB (16GB total)

Option A – Replace all (best compatibility):

• Remove 2x8GB
• Install 2x16GB matched kit
• Result: 32GB, perfect compatibility

Option B – Add matching RAM (good if available):

• Keep 2x8GB in place
• Add 2x8GB identical model
• Result: 32GB, very good compatibility

Option C – Add similar RAM (risky):

• Keep 2x8GB in place
• Add 2x8GB different brand/model but same specs
• Result: 32GB, may or may not work

My recommendation: Option A (replace all) unless you can find exact same model for Option B. Avoid Option C unless you’re prepared to return/exchange RAM if incompatible.

Selling old RAM:

• If replacing all, sell old RAM on eBay, Facebook Marketplace, r/hardwareswap
• Recoups 40-60% of new RAM cost typically
• 8GB sticks: $15-25 each
• 16GB sticks: $30-50 each

Understanding RAM Specifications

What the numbers mean:

DDR4-3200:

• DDR4 = generation (DDR3, DDR4, DDR5)
• 3200 = speed in MHz (also called MT/s)
• Higher = faster

CL16:

• CAS Latency
• Lower = faster (CL14 faster than CL18)
• Must match when mixing RAM

1.35V:

• Operating voltage
• Standard DDR4: 1.2V
• Performance DDR4: 1.35V
• Must match when mixing

16GB:

• Capacity per stick
• 4GB, 8GB, 16GB, 32GB common

Single-rank vs Dual-rank:

• Refers to memory chip organization
• Dual-rank slightly faster in some scenarios
• Check specs, can affect compatibility

Example RAM specification breakdown:

Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4-3200 C16 1.35V

• Brand: Corsair
• Model: Vengeance LPX
• Total capacity: 16GB
• Stick configuration: 2x8GB
• Generation: DDR4
• Speed: 3200MHz
• CAS latency: 16 (CL16 or C16)
• Voltage: 1.35V

To match this RAM exactly:

• Same brand: Corsair
• Same model: Vengeance LPX
• Same capacity per stick: 8GB
• Same speed: DDR4-3200
• Same latency: CL16
• Same voltage: 1.35V

Matching all these ensures compatibility.

Cost Analysis

My RAM upgrade:

• Attempted: Add 2x16GB to existing 2x8GB (mixed specs)
• Cost: $85 (returned)
• Time wasted: 4 hours troubleshooting

Successful upgrade:

• Replaced all with 4x8GB matched kit
• Cost: $95
• Works perfectly, full 32GB detected
• Total time: 20 minutes

Lesson: Buying matched kit from start saves time and money over trying to mix incompatible RAM.

Common upgrade costs:

16GB to 32GB upgrade:

• Add matching 2x8GB: $40-60 (if exact match available)
• Replace with 2x16GB kit: $70-100
• Replace with 4x8GB kit: $80-110

32GB to 64GB upgrade:

• Add matching 2x16GB: $80-120 (if exact match available)
• Replace with 2x32GB kit: $140-200
• Replace with 4x16GB kit: $150-220

Budget vs performance RAM:

• Budget (DDR4-2666 CL19): 20-30% cheaper
• Mid-range (DDR4-3200 CL16): Best value
• High-end (DDR4-3600 CL14): 40-50% more expensive, minimal real-world difference

My recommendation: Mid-range DDR4-3200 CL16 offers best performance per dollar. Higher speeds rarely justify price premium for typical use.

When RAM Upgrade Isn’t Worth It

Don’t upgrade RAM if:

System is old (5+ years):

• Old DDR3 RAM still expensive
• Better to upgrade entire platform
• Modern DDR4/DDR5 systems much faster

Motherboard limits prevent meaningful upgrade:

• Example: Board maxes at 16GB, you have 16GB
• Upgrade entire system instead

Current capacity sufficient:

• 8GB adequate for basic use
• 16GB plenty for gaming
• 32GB overkill unless specific workflows
• 64GB+ only for professional work

Cost exceeds value gained:

• If upgrade costs $200+ on old system
• That money better spent toward new platform

Upgrade opportunity analysis:

Current system: DDR3 platform, 8GB RAM
Upgrade cost: $80 for 16GB DDR3
Alternative: $400 budget DDR4 platform with 16GB new
Recommendation: Save toward new platform

Current system: DDR4 platform, 16GB RAM, slow storage
Upgrade cost: $100 for 32GB RAM
Alternative: $100 for 1TB NVMe SSD
Recommendation: SSD upgrade provides more noticeable improvement for most users

The Bottom Line

RAM not being detected after upgrade is usually improper installation (not fully seated) or compatibility issues (mixing incompatible specs). My upgrade failed because I mixed RAM with different CAS latencies. Replacing all four sticks with a matched kit fixed everything instantly.

Your action plan:

1. Verify RAM fully seated (push HARD until click)
2. Check using correct slots (A2+B2 for dual-channel usually)
3. Test one stick at a time (isolate defective stick)
4. Verify RAM specs match if mixing (speed, latency, voltage)
5. Check motherboard hasn’t exceeded capacity or per-slot limits
6. Update BIOS if using high-capacity or high-speed RAM
7. Test with XMP disabled (try JEDEC speeds first)
8. Return/RMA if hardware actually defective

Economic reality: Buying matched RAM kit costs same or less than mixing brands/specs and troubleshooting for hours. Replace all RAM with matched kit for guaranteed compatibility.

The key insight: RAM is extremely finicky about mixing specifications. Even “identical” specs (same speed) with different latencies or brands often fails. Match everything exactly or replace all with matched kit. The “save money by keeping old RAM” approach usually backfires.

Got RAM not detecting after upgrade? Drop your motherboard model, old RAM specs, new RAM specs, and how many sticks are detected vs installed. I’ll help diagnose your specific situation.